Rangoon is heartbreak and joy, both at once. The contrast is stark. Grime and gold. Sights imprint much more than sounds or smells here.

Looking down while walking is essential. Everyone must carefully choose where to step. Many sidewalks are like crumbled crackers and wide gaps and mud puddles suddenly appear. Mounds of dry dirt, gravel and trampled trash gather along the edges. The dusty shoulders of the streets are sometimes better for walking. Buses are ancient and rusting, parks seem to be for pay only and are surrounded by chain link and barbed wire. Looking up we see what were clearly once beautiful buildings that have become grey with soot and mould and are over-grown with vines. The city has been neglected.

Yet, around us are the Burmese people. In their eyes there is such kindness, humor and patience and, despite their hardships, they carry themselves tall and they appear strong and confident. Not too much can be said.

Almost all men and women wear traditional ‘longyi’. It is a waist-to-ankle, cotton sarong worn both for work and home. Downtown lawyers, cab drivers and teenagers, mothers and grandfathers all wear them. I think the ‘longyi’ looks finer than a kilt on a man (and I do like a kilt on a man). Men tend to have their longyi in muted shades of fine checks and plaids and wear them with a proud knot out front and their shirts tucked in. Women wrap them smoothly in front and wear their slim blouses on the outside. Shortly after arriving in Rangoon yesterday we came upon a bustling street market and in a very short time I purchased my first ‘longyi’; maroon background with a faint olive-green pattern. I stepped into the wide circle of fabric and the shopkeeper helpfully tied it over my pants. The news travelled fast. As we made our way around the market, we were greeted with smiles, hand-shakes, and calls of approval. Randy bought his ‘longyi’ today. It’s a classy, rich brown check with a faint blue stripe. Much fun again as several fellows off the street had to step in to help demonstrate the knot.

There are sad corners everywhere in Rangoon, but across the street from our hostel a bright red banner hangs proudly from a high window and pictures of her are everywhere.

Tomorrow we will go to see the golden Shwe Dagon Pagoda and then an overnight bus to Mandalay.

Goodnight.

Love Monika and Randy.