Numero quatro – The Atacama Desert

We are now back in Chile, having crossed the border from Argentina at a high altitude over the Andes. Healthy young people were dropping like flies at border control but we were just fine. Besides our amazing fortitude 🙂 we were thankful again for the coca leaves.
The road trip between Salta and San Pedro Atacama is stunning!

At the altiplano we passed through the middle of a vast salt desert as white as snow as far as the eye could see in every direction … like prairie winter scene made of salt. It is the bottom of a prehistoric sea. Eventually this gives way to the rolling foothills of the Andes with only the sparsest vegetation… tufts of short grass between cactus and sage-colored, cushion- sized bushes. Very few animals live here but our eyes continually scan the desert for the rare and elusive vicuna, a protected species. Related to llamas, vicuna are smaller in size with spindly legs and coat of fluffy yellow, rather like a baby chick in wool. In ancient times only the Aztec rulers were permitted to have clothing made of this wool. And, we see vicuna … twice! I’m certain we’ve wakened the entire busload of passengers!

A hike through the Atacama Desert had us running down mountainous sand dunes and looking over the edge of a precipice into the Valley of Death … a strong wind lifted my hat off and it lays down there still, at the bottom of the canyon, forlorn, irretrievable but at least biodegradable. A hat for Pachamama (Mother Earth).  We walked through stunning, ancient formations of hot sand and salt in the Valle de Luna, this moonscape is part of the natural beauty of northern Chile. It would not be difficult to get lost here and we imagine ourselves slowly turning into jerky. This environment preserves artifacts for millennia. Instead, our (well hydrated) day ends with a setting sun in pink and purple and gold on the horizon and with a ring of snow capped volcanoes at our backs.

Goodnight all.

Love Monika

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